Spa Purchasing Guide

At Charlottesville Aquatics, we believe buying a new spa should be an exciting, fun, and rewarding experience. However, too often in our industry, it is instead a confusing, frustrating and stressful one.

For most of us, the purchase of a new spa is a substantial investment, so it is important that we be well informed before deciding on the right spa - one that will suit our needs and give long-term satisfaction. There is a lot of information to absorb while shopping. Often it is confusing and even conflicting. For this reason, we have compiled some of the key information to consider before you make your purchase.

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One of the first things to understand when buying a spa is that a low sticker price does not always mean a low long-term cost. It certainly does not mean long-term satisfaction. A good spa can last 12 to 18 years. A poorly made spa may not hold up for more than a few years. Using an inefficient and poorly manufactured spa can result in exorbitant energy and maintenance bills. And, they may not offer the performance you’re hoping for. As you might expect, the best spas on the market today may not be the cheapest. However, there is a reason for this. The manufacturers of premium spas are interested in your long-term costs and satisfactions over an initially low sticker price. As a rule, if a spa’s price seems to be unusually low, just know that you would be giving up something of value.

Design Features and Quality Concerns:

1) CIRCULATION: Although salespeople can make claims that sound much more complicated, the simple truth is that spas generally have one of two types of circulation systems.

The first type uses a large two-speed jet pump for both filtration and for powering the jets. It runs on low speed for filtration and on high speed to power the jets. It does not provide continuous 24 hr. filtration. The water will be “standing water”, unmoving, for a good part of the day and night.  Ozonation (discussed later) will also not be continuous. The advantage is that the spa should cost less.

Most premium spas use a separate 24-hr. dedicated circulation pump or “circ pump”. The circ pump is a smaller pump (usually a fraction of a horsepower) that is dedicated to continuous filtration. There are many advantages to this. You will have cleaner water. The temperature will be steadier. Ozonation is constant, providing more sanitation. The small circ pump uses less energy than the larger jet pumps, resulting in lower energy costs. It costs more initially but results in savings over the long-term. The circ pump also saves wear and tear on the primary jet pumps resulting in longer pump life. As an added bonus, the circ pump is much quieter than the larger two-speed pumps. This can be of great value if your spa is close to your bedroom window.

2) INSULATION: Heat loss is a major concern in a spa. Poorly insulated spas lose heat quickly and therefore require the heater to stay on constantly to maintain water temperature. This would obviously add to the operating cost, which can range from $12 to $100 per month depending on spa quality.  Poor insulation also makes the spa less able to consistently provide the temperature you desire.

Some manufacturers try to save money and use “dead air space” for insulation. This is simply a space between the spa and the cabinet designated to hold warm air. It is a much less effective way to insulate a spa. Others will “skimp” or use inferior insulation around the spa shell and only use their better, more expensive insulation around the equipment compartment to prevent freezing. Of course, this results in higher electric bills for you.

Most manufacturers of premium spas choose to fully insulate the spa with high-density foam. Thick foam is sprayed to cover the entire area between the shell and the cabinet. This fully insulated design will reduce loss of heat better than any other method. This saves energy and keeps the water temperature warmer and more stable. This method also holds the plumbing firmly in place so that a leak in the plumbing is extremely rare.

You should have a quality, fully insulated, locking cover included with your spa.

The only section of the spa that should be open and vented is the section containing the pump motors. Vented motors run cooler, last longer, and are more efficient.

3) SEATING COMFORT: If at all possible, sit in a spa before buying it. An uncomfortable seat can dramatically affect the enjoyment of owning a spa! If you are a big person, make sure you have extra-roomy seats. If you are tall or long-waisted, make sure your upper torso will stay below the water line. In the old days, hot tubs were designed with flat, narrow seats or no seats at all. You’ll still see this design in some spas today. The disadvantage of these seats is that you are always fighting your natural buoyancy especially when the jets are on. Spas are meant for relaxation. Struggling to stay in your seat is not relaxing. If you tend to float, is there a place to anchor your feet to help offset buoyancy? Look for built-in grab rails which will also help with this. A narrow seat may be too snug or require you to constantly sit up straight.  This can mean the difference between feeling like you’re sitting on a park bench compared to sitting in your easy-chair. You may find a contoured seat is more comfortable. Pick a spa that offers the right seating comfort for your body type, and scrutinize the spa for comfort-features before it is too late!

4) STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY: This is a hard factor for consumers to evaluate because much of this is not apparent at first view. Spas can initially look the same – a shell, some jets, and a cabinet. However, looks can be deceiving.

There are dramatic differences in the quality of the shells and cabinetry. The cheaper spas use thin acrylic and inconsistent moldings. One hint: Look to see if the edges at the top of the spa have been filled with sealer or glue. The best manufacturers mold thick shells with such precision there is no need for filler to cover up the imperfections. Sealants can also deteriorate over time and allow water damage inside the cabinet. You should see a straight edge without waves. The edge should overhang the cabinet. Shells should also be reinforced at the stress points (top edge, floor, etc.).

Wood cabinets were the norm during the evolution of hot tubs, except for a certain classic “dog dish” shaped plastic model. Cedar, mahogany and redwood are still used as materials for spa cabinets. Although these can be lovely, the disadvantages of wood are fairly obvious. Wood requires maintenance to retain its good looks. Wood cabinets need to be sanded and re-stained.  If you are putting your spa indoors or in an area well-protected from sun and rain, you may be happy with a beautiful wood cabinet. However, exposed to the elements, wood will usually rot over time even with your best efforts - and warp, especially around the removable equipment panel.

Most premium spas now come equipped with a synthetic maintenance-free cabinet. Again, not all of these are the same. Superior synthetic cabinets not only look beautiful but have been engineered to be highly UV and water resistant. They can be maintained simply with a damp cloth and mild detergent. Companies who have been making synthetic cabinets for many years have a big advantage over the newcomers. You can be sure these pioneering companies have been finding new ways to improve the quality, performance and appearance of their cabinets each and every year. A textured cabinet will hide wear and tear better than a smooth finish. When synthetic cabinets are of high quality, chances are the cabinet will look as good in 10 years as it did the day you bought the spa. The spa will continue to enhance rather than detract from the beauty of your outdoor living space

5) JET PERFORMANCE: Ever hear a spa dealer say that their spa has “super-horsepower pumps”? Just know that a dealer of quality spas will not need to tout pump horsepower to try and convince you that their jets perform well. They’ll just have you feel the water flow out of their jets. That is really what we are talking about, right? What you care about is the water flow out of the jets, not the horsepower of the pump. By designing the plumbing in a way that does not restrict flow and by using efficient pump design and creative jet design, there is no need for the pumps to be huge to result in powerful performance. However, one thing is certain: the bigger the pump hp, the more money you’ll be shelling out to your utility company. And, surprisingly, you may have less powerful jets. We should also note that there is no standard in the spa industry on how pump horsepower (hp) is measured. Slap a 15hp sticker on your pump and you can call it a 15hp pump. If you can, test soak the spa.The best way to test a spa’s performance is to feel the water flow, at least with your hands.

Fixed jet locations have been the choice of virtually all the top manufacturers. A few powerful jets in just the right place are worth a dozen weak, inferior jets in the wrong places. Again, feel them! Jets should firmly massage major muscle groups, have adjustable strength and target your specific problem areas. Some manufacturers have entire seats that can be removed and replaced. However, few people that own these spas actually change the jets. Our primary concern with this type of seat design¾and a reason it isn’t more common¾is that it leaves stagnant water behind the seat where there is no flow. Stagnant water invites algae growth, mold, and harmful bacteria. We recommend that you choose the jet quality, placement and therapy you are looking for right from the beginning, from a dealer that you trust.

Keep yourself and your family safe: The Low Down on Water Care

Keeping your spa water clean and safe can be one of the most confusing for people to understand. Indeed, many people have shied away from purchasing a spa for fear of the maintenance required.

The good news is that new advancements have made caring for your spa much, much easier! The bad news is that no matter what claims have been made – and there are many false and misleading claims out there - there is no such thing as a maintenance-free spa. (Read the “fine print”.)

The risks of unsanitary water are great and warm water is a perfect medium for growth of harmful bacteria. Therefore, no spa manufacturer recommends completely eliminating a chemical sanitizer.

No matter what sanitizer you choose, it should be EPA registered and approved as a stand-alone sanitizing system. It should have NSF-50 (National Sanitation Foundation) certification. And, it should be UL-1563 (Underwriters Laboratory) recognized. Most copper-based systems have not met these criteria.

1) OZONE:  An ozonator is a device in the spa’s equipment compartment that injects ozone into the water. Ozone kills microorganisms in the water that can cause illness and skin disorders, acting as a natural sanitizer and oxidizer. It acts as a back-up sanitation system and provides superior water clarity. While an ozonator does not always completely eliminate the need for another sanitizer, it dramatically reduces that need. It is a tried and true, EPA approved system that you can rely upon for safer water.

All ozonators are not created equal. Some ozonators use a UV light bulb. These bulbs are relatively low performing and need replacing every 2 years or so. The UV bulbs lose potency over their life span and there is no way to know when they have stopped working effectively. Often, it is necessary to open the cabinet regularly to see if it is working. You will still encounter this type of ozonator in cheaper spas. A much better alternative is a Corona Discharge (CD) Ozonator. CD Ozone is generated by a cell within the equipment compartment, and these very long-lasting CD ozonators generally require no maintenance. They deliver 4 times more ozone than a UV bulb! And they are very affordable.

If you are investing in an ozonator, you should take note that 24 hr. circulation will allow the ozonator to work 24 hrs a day. If a spa only circulates 4-6 hours a day, that’s how many hours your ozone system can work to protect you.

2) SILVER ION CARTRIDGES:  An exciting development in the spa industry in recent years is the silver and zinc cartridge that auto-dispenses from inside the filter. Silver and zinc (both bactericides) act as natural sanitizers, and although not as powerful as a CD ozonator they are a great compliment to the ozonator, further reducing the need for chemical sanitizers. They sanitize continuously for 4 months, at which time they should be replaced.  When a CD ozonator is used in conjunction with a silver/zinc ion cartridge, you have a complete sanitizing system that can eliminate the need for chemical sanitizers.

3) CHEMICAL SANITIZERS: Currently chlorine, bromine, and biguanides (BaquaSpa) are the ONLY spa sanitizers approved by the EPA. We recommend you get the best ozonator available (a CD ozonator) if you want to reduce chemicals and still be safe.
 

1. Chlorine: Chlorine is the old standby. It’s very effective and is still the most popular spa sanitizer. A note about chlorine: Most people fill their spa with a hose. The water is usually treated water from a municipal water treatment facility. This water generally has chlorine in it for safety reasons. We shower with the same water. The point is, the “bad chlorine” most people think of stems from experience with over-saturated public pools and hotel spas. Proper use of chlorine in your own spa does not have to result in a harsh smell and dry skin. It is largely unnoticeable.
2. Bromine: Bromine is chemically very close to chlorine and is also an effective spa sanitizer. (It’s right next to chlorine on the periodic table.) Bromine tends to last a bit longer in hot water and gives the water a “soft” feel. We do not recommend bromine floaters or automatic dispensers because of uneven distribution, which can be irritating to the skin.
3. Biguanides: (Brand name BaquaSpa) BaquaSpa is a non-chlorine, non-bromine sanitizer for people with more sensitive or dry skin or chlorine allergy. BaquaSpa is a Hydrogen Peroxide derivative. It is used up quickly if the spa is used often but lasts a long time when the spa is unused. This characteristic makes it a good choice for vacation homes where the spa is idle for long periods. Some people dislike the smell and characteristic foaminess of BaquaSpa. (Please note: We do not recommend BaquaSpa for indoor spas. Some customers have reported that BacquaSpa induced coughing when used indoors.)

4) COPPER: There are some newer, very expensive copper and oxygen based systems that are advertised as “chemical-free”. They still require additives and maintenance - adjustments to pH, water hardness, and scale control. In fact they require that pH remain neutral with no variations to work properly. Copper is a registered algaecide. It is not considered a powerful bactericide, and in spas, bacteria are much more of a concern than algae. These systems may work in most situations, but may be over-challenged by heavy bather loads or other conditions. Their effectiveness and safety has not been extensively tested in comparison to the millions of ozone systems that have been successfully used. Copper is rarely used in pools or spas because of the staining and discoloration that can occur. The largest manufacturers of spas in the country all recommend ozonator and mineral cartridge systems in their literature. None openly recommend copper-based systems.

5) FILTERS: The honest truth is that every highly reputable spa brand probably has a good filtration system even if one brand does it differently than the next. Continuous filtration with a 24 hr. circ pump will do the best job. Some systems use only one filter. Some, as many as five! The advantage of more filters is more surface area for filtering water while the pumps are on. Disadvantages are slowed water flow resulting in weaker jets and labor intensive monthly cleaning. A larger filter (with more sq. ft. of filtering material) will filter more water. But remember that a smaller spa does not need to filter as much water a larger spa. Check and make sure the filters can be accessed easily from outside of the spa; you should not have to go inside the cabinet or get wet to access the filter. Don’t forget to ask how often the filter needs to be cleaned, as this can vary. How long will the filter last before needing to be replaced? This can range from 4 months to 5 years!

6) DRAINING AND REFILLING: Even the best water care will not keep water perfect forever. Most manufacturers recommend draining a spa 3 to 4 times a year. With a CD ozonator and good water care, you can often go six months between water changes in a premium spa. Make sure the spa has an easy-to-access drain with freeze protection.

For Peace of Mind, Choose Only Reputable Manufacturers and Dealers

“There’s a guy in the paper who says he’s a warehouse wholesaler. He said he can sell his spa at wholesale prices.”

In the spa world, if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. These types of dealers usually start with a misleading ad in the classifieds that looks like an individual selling a spa. When you call, you find out that it’s actually a “discount wholesaler” that “normally sells to contractors”. So, why use deceptive advertising? Don’t buy a spa without taking a good look at the quality, if possible sitting in it to make sure you fit in the seats and have adequate leg room, and, most importantly, verifying to your satisfaction that you can expect the dealer and the manufacturer to be there for you in the future when you need parts, filters or service. Remember, even a *“lifetime warranty” is no good if the companies no longer exist. (*See warranty section for warnings regarding “lifetime warranties”.) No local dealer will be willing and able to help you with parts and service when you have another brand of spa.

Here are a few things to consider when deciding on a brand and a spa dealer:

1) WILL THE DEALER AND THE MANUFACTURER BE THERE FOR THE LONG HAUL?  Spa companies and spa dealers are everywhere. You’ll find local dealers, big box stores, and online vendors.  At any given time, there are about 150-200 spa manufactures from which to choose. The reality of spa sales is that about 25-30% of these manufactures go out of business within 2-5 years. A very sad situation when customers need parts that is no longer available. We recommend you choose a manufacturer that has been around for a couple decades or more. ISO 9001 is a certification of production excellence awarded by Lloyd’s Register Quality Assurance to many types of production facilities.  The few spa factories that have ISO 9001 designations are the manufacturers that stress production excellence. Ask your spa dealer if their manufacturer is ISO 9001 certified.

Spa dealers have an even higher failure rate than manufacturers. It can be a tough business and many local businesses fail. It is an all too common situation to have a local dealer go under leaving no one to service the spas they sold. We would recommend that you choose a dealer who has been in your area for a decade or more. There are probably not many.

Many of us like to root for the little guy. It’s kind of an American tradition. However, in the spa world, there is a huge advantage to having a large company backing you up. The bigger spa manufacturers have the capital and resources to be at the forefront of research, design work, and innovation. They have the ability to reinvest in more efficient and effective production methods. They can take advantage of quantity-of-scale purchasing. And, if the economy takes a downswing, a large company can ride out the storm much better than a smaller one.  By choosing one of the major players, you can rest easier knowing that your spa will be in service for years to come.

2) ASK QUESTIONS ABOUT THE WARRANTY: This is important! Warranties can vary greatly in their coverage. Ask to see the warranty in writing, read it carefully and don’t be afraid to ask questions. Ask whether travel, labor, service inspection, and parts are fully covered during the warranty period. A reputable dealer will be honest and happy to let you see a copy of the warranty agreement. By law, they should have one available for you to examine.

The best premium spas offer 5 year warranties on the heater, pumps, and components and this will NOT be “pro-rated”. Pro-rated means that as the spa ages, the percentage of the coverage drops, leaving the customer to pay up to 90% of the repair fee. A 7-10 year no-leak shell warranty should be expected. A 3-5 year no-leak warranty on the plumbing is the norm. 

The heater is the most vulnerable part of your spa and can be affected by improper water care and other factors. Be sure to ask if the heater warranty is a “No-Fault Warranty”. This will give you more peace of mind.

Some dealers will claim “lifetime” warranties. Be careful and read the fine print. In the courts, “lifetime” only refers to seven years. These warranties are usually pro-rated. Some warranties also require that the customer pay to have the spa shipped back to the factory. Dealers may also hide the fact that they charge large travel fees. The warranties may not cover labor. Some dealers will even charge to evaluate the problem with their spa before fixing it.  It’s your money. Don’t be shy. Ask about the coverage!

3) WELL-TRAINED, EXPERIEINCED STAFF: Pick a dealer who has demonstrated excellent knowledge of their product. The best dealers have ongoing training and strive for excellence in all areas of their business. Did you get the feeling you were dealing with professionals?

4) SERVICE AND TECHNICAL SUPPORT: Though the better spas require little service and warranty work, things do happen. When you hand over several thousand dollars for your spa, you will want to know that someone is there for you if you have a problem. Without a doubt, it is wisest to choose a local dealer who can provide service directly from their own store. Ask the local dealer about their service department. Your dealer should have trained knowledgeable service personnel on staff to assist you if needed and troubleshoot problems over the phone to avoid non-warranty service calls. 

“Big box” and internet vendors generally do not have any type of service department nor individuals available to cover warranty issues. Most do not even have anyone on staff that is knowledgeable about their products. Repair and service issues can be a serious headache and again, usually no local dealer will be willing and able to help you.

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For more information on recommended spa brands, from a third party source, check “Spa Buyer's Guide & Manufacturer's Links” at www.poolandspa.com.

What is Included in the Price?

When buying a spa, it is essential that you know everything that is included in the price quoted.

“DELIVERY.” What do they mean? Are you just having a spa dropped off at the curb and nothing else? (Believe it or not, this is often the case.) Or are you getting a professional, comprehensive delivery program?

A curbside drop-off delivery can mean having to move a 900 lb spa to the desired location yourself and hoping your deck won’t collapse, removing all the packing and disposing of it, doing all the final wiring, cover and other installations, shopping for water care products and figuring out on your own how to operate and maintain the spa. (By the way, if you drop the spa or “fry” the controls while trying to wire them –oh well! That’s a scary scenario after you just shelled out several thousand dollars.)

A top-quality spa dealer will have a comprehensive delivery program. They can inspect your deck for safety and support, take care of complete delivery and installation, take care of wiring the controls properly, removing all packaging, installing the cover and all accessories, and give you a full orientation on spa ownership and water care. Don’t underestimate the value you are missing by opting for anything less! It is usually included in the price. A quality dealer can also take care of all the electrical preparation from start to finish, upon request, although this is rarely included in the price.

Make sure to get full price estimates that will include everything you will need, especially if you are price shopping. Considering the value of everything that comes with the quoted price of a spa is the only way to make a fair, apples-to-apples comparison. Some of the things that you will need include:

• Spa
• Delivery
• Set Up
• Locking Cover
• Cover Lifter Device
• Steps (for spas over 29” tall)
• Supplies for Water care and Testing
• Ozone and Mineral Cartridge (if desired)
• Electrical Subpanel (GFCI quick disconnect is required for most building codes; this can cost about $200 if not included)
• Wiring of Spa Controls
• Electrical Preparation from the main service panel in your home to the spa location

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Our hope is that by understanding some of the basic differences in the spas available today, you will be able to make an informed decision and get to the best part of owning your own spa……RELAXING!

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